My wish came true
so this is brilliant! The ebb and flow of life in Ghana is incredible. And I have finally found my heart intertwining with this place. I went on my village stay, and saw and sketched(because my camera battery died) some really amazing things. It has changed my perceptions and given me an appreciation that has transformed my placement.
The Fulani fascinate me, as I spent days with them–learning their language, sketching their architecture, and just chillin with some of the happiest people I have ever seen. I couldn’t speak a word to them when I first arrived, and basically just tagged along to the river with the women where they wash their clothes. Their ingenuity makes me so happy, and as I couldn’t say, ” that is epic!” I gave them the thumbs up sign, which they didn’t get. So I just smiled broadly and hoped they knew they were very intelligent and creative.
The other village I went to had very wise elders and by this time I had learned a few words of Hausa so I could compliment their brilliance, learned a few names, and drew a few faces. I even was invited to bring my camera next time to photograph their village. Their structures are great! I got to chill in one of the elders homes, and drew the interior while the children pointed out what the objects names were in Fulani. What was cool was that they had mosquito nets in their grass/ stick move-able houses.
I probably consumed 2 litres of yogurt and 1 litre of cow’s milk on those visits, but thankfully my body still loves dairy—it’s probably all the Wakashi I have been eating.
So during my village stay I needed some time to reflect, write in my journal, read, you know, and so I journeyed to this rock haven I had found amongst the trees where goats come and bask in the shade. Now I realized this early on in my walk that I was being followed, but I just kept walking slyly glancing back. My pursuer was none other than this tiny girl from the village with a very adventurous look on her face. I couldn’t speak to her so I just kept on walking thinking she would get bored and go back. This was not the case, and she followed me still. So when I finally reached my refuge, she came and stood watching me. Haha I drew her with my pastels—see the picture.

Then as it was I didn’t get to reflect, as at the distant riverside I saw two Fulani herdsmen (or boys as I gleaned when I finally reached them)…so I jumped off my perch and ran through the tall grasses like a lizard to the Fulani with their giant cows. You know it has been my wish since I discovered the Fulani to go herding with them, so it was granted. After my initiation which included me borrowing their ada (knife) for carving a staff I set off with them through the trees to guide their cows. You would be impressed to know that the boys were about 5/7 years old and the 5 year old was the cutest—as he ran after the cows threatening them with his staff. He did so giggly and it was all very inspiring, this yaro (small boy) commanding these cows weighing close to a ton. It was very fortunate that the tiny girl had followed me herding, as I was stung by some creature (later I found out a type of wasp that makes very cool mud houses on the wall of my shower), this tiny adventurous( and very mature for her age) girl lead me home( I would’ve had no clue where to go)–back to the village, and that was that. I soon forgot the sting, as there was an Imam making Tesuba (Muslim prayer beads) so I spent the afternoon sketching him, and learning the Fulani names for things. I also experienced attyre–basically a green tea shot loaded with sugar …mmmm very good, makes you strong–as they say. I bought today at the market the coal pot and the tiny attyre glasses to brew my own
my village stay was a transforming experience, I am learning to appreciate many things. My time not being able to speak one word to the Fulani has given me thankfulness that I can speak English/Gonja/Hausa with my colleagues and has made the office a very social place. I also learned to ask questions and be comfortable with not knowing everything.
Gonja and Hausa I have been learning—every evening I go to a shopkeepers shop, eat caramalized coconut, learn Hauser and play with cute cute cute yaros, and it is very fine indeed. I also sketch alot, and take night photos at dance-off’s.—oh and I got a bicycle! …All-in-All Ghana has granted my wishes.
Sarah, great post! I’m so glad you’re finding happiness and beauty and cool people and epic experiences in Ghana
It takes time, but this country and its people seem to grow on you eh? I’m so glad you got so much out of your village stay.
See you soon!
Erin
July 26, 2010 at 5:05 pm
Fantastic post Sarah! I love that you’re sketching people– very creative.
See you soon!
-Erin
July 26, 2010 at 10:41 pm